Whisky: Bruichladdich 10 Year (c. 1990s)

Country/Region: Scotland/Islay

ABV: 43%

Age: 10 Years

Nose: Salt, lemon, cream, orange zest, celery or black pepper, subtle florals, pencil shavings.

Palate: Medium-bodied, mellow, maritime, citrus, graham cracker, bitter chocolate, pepper, pencil shaving, subtle dried grass.

Finish: Medium-length with pastries and bitter chocolate.

Score: 6

Mental Image: Beachy Memories

Narrative & Notes: Soft and mellow, the aroma was coastal with subtle citrus. Lemon peel, orange zest, tangerine cream candies, and cinnamon were joined by a soft black pepper or raw celery bite— though always more a nibble than a chomp. Subtle florals, woody pencil shavings, and clay emerged with more time. The palate was medium-bodied with mellow maritime salt, citrusy orange and lemon, graham crackers, and a bitter chocolate note that lingered to the end. Orange marmalade came to mind with black pepper, pencil shavings, and dried grass. Subtle pastries and chocolate lingered on a medium-length finish.

The first time I tried this was during a local whisky club ‘vintage malt’ tasting, and I was not a huge fan. I scribbled down a score of four among my notes without much hope that I would find it better later. However, I found that while revisiting the dram, beyond the hubbub of a tasting or the lineup of other whiskies, I enjoyed it a lot more. I am still not convinced the auction prices for 1980s or 90s Bruichladdich are worth the premium, but the whisky was lovely, and the old-school distillery DNA came through prominently. To that end, it reminded me of some of the old Bruichladdich releases of pre-shutdown casks, especially the fruit and wood notes. There was none of the funk and brashness that characterizes the modern distillery— or at least the years with McEwan at the helm.

Overall, a tasty malt and a fun blast from the past for one of my favorite distilleries. I was not initially taken in by its subtleties, but it grew on me with time.