Whisky: Bruichladdich 11 Year (2010), Dramfool

Country/Region: Scotland/Islay

ABV: 61.8%

Cask: Rivesaltes Barrique

Age: 11 Years (Distilled 8 Sept. 2010, Bottled 11 April 2022)

Nose: Thick, sweet, and dry with raspberry, cream soda, chocolate, cherry, cinnamon, orange, and a hint of sandalwood.

Palate: Thick and unctuous, drying, chocolate, sour cherry, chili pepper, cinnamon, nutmeg, chocolate-covered strawberries, hints of cream and vanilla.

Finish: Long, lingering, and drying with chocolate and fruit.

Score: 8

Mental Image: Mexican Chocolate Cream Soda

Narrative & Notes: Intense and rich, the aroma was loaded with raspberries, cherries, dark chocolate, and cream soda. Sweet spice arrived with cinnamon, orange zest, anise, leather, and hints of sandalwood. The palate reprised the dominant notes with a thick and unctuous spirit that was slightly drying. The flavor profile was full-bodied with chocolate, sour cherries, cinnamon, and sweet chili peppers. The chili-chocolate bonanza continued as nutmeg arrived with strawberries, figs, goat cheese, and a balsamic reduction. Toward the end were creamy notes of vanilla and licorice, which came on much stronger with a few drops of water. The finish was long and drying, with chocolate, dried fruit, and subtle spice.

This would not usually be up my alley: unpeated Bruichladdich rarely tickles my fancy, and my previous run-ins with Rivesaltes maturations were not very positive. In fact, one of my least favorite Bruichladdich experiences was a private cask aged in a Rivesaltes hogshead. Yet, this was lovely; I especially loved the varying impressions of cream, licorice, or fruit sodas that danced across my palate. While this was perfectly enjoyable at cask strength, I thought water heightened those soda elements and tamped down some of the saccharine qualities of the whisky.

Overall, I did not expect to like this, but I had enough faith in Dramfool to feel comfortable splitting a bottle with friends. I am glad I did because I enjoyed it and would not have tried it otherwise. Turns out, sometimes smacking the malt with a wine cudgel works out all right.