During our brief foray to Tokyo, the wife and I dropped by a few whisky bars. We planned to do a few more, or revisit some of our favorites, but the fates had other things in store. First, we lost a few days due to flight cancellations, and by the time we arrived we had to quickly move on to the ryokan portion of the trip— the segment the wife was most excited for. At least we made it at all! Then, we managed to pick up a bug on the second half of the trip, and with our senses dulled from sinus congestion and the weariness of travel, there seemed little point in splurging on drams without being able to fully enjoy them.
The bars and drams we did manage were amazing and this duo of short reviews kicks us off at the Society Bar. The Society Bar sits in the 25th floor lobby of the Park Hotel in the Shiodome district, which lays sandwiched between Ginza and Shimbashi. The bar has a decent list of Japanese and Scotch whiskies, but the real gem is its SMWS menu. That menu is far more extensive, and comes with a discount for those that have their SMWS member card or, if you have forgotten your card, as we did, the ability to log online and provide proof of membership.
The drams were lovely and the view was spectacular with shimmering lights and trains passing in the reflections off the high rises around us. The bar offers an SMWS High Tea whisky tasting set, something we were going to do on the days we lost and will save for a future visit. I heard an elderly woman who came in for a late night nibble and glass of wine remark that the Basque cheesecake was her favorite— perhaps something to try next time! We meant to come back to the bar, as we only grabbed a pair of drams before calling it a night, but never did.
WHISKY: Tobermory 26 Year (1994), SMWS 42.64 “Pleasure Garden”
NOTES: The aroma was sweet and mellow with green grapes and apricots in a hidden garden as musty soil and vegetation lingered around the edges. More sugars, grass, and sweetness gathered steam with vanilla buttercream frosting on a morning bun, cinnamon, old twigs, dry leaves, and a cup of vanilla rose tea. Medium to light-bodied on the palate, the mouthfeel was initially waxy and a bit peppery, but gradually took on a more austere and tannic quality. The flavors were quite woody, with occasional forays by vanilla pods, dried pineapple rings, old leather book covers, black tea, and cinnamon. The finish was medium-length and peppery with a kiss of fruit, salt, and woody apricot pits.
SCORE: 6 (78)
IMAGE: Wooden Wrecks Crumbling like Cookies on the Beach
THOUGHTS: I am a sucker for these older Tobermory and Ledaig. You never know quite what you are going to get from them, so I was pulled in, hoping that this was maybe a slightly floral version of the maritime and corrugated metal roofs I most often find on them. The aroma was quite pleasant with a particular floral quality to the fruits and wood, especially as it had time to sit. However, the palate was light and austere, with a strong tannic element which grew alongside a pepperiness that shifted from gentle to nagging. The whisky reminded me a lot of this Tobermory I reviewed previously in that it had its moments, but ultimately proved frustrating and spent perhaps a bit too long in the cask.
WHISKY: Port Charlotte 13 Year (2008), SMWS 127.46 “Trawlers, tractors, and tremendous smoke”
NOTES: Wood smoldering in a winter fire place, warm leather, sweet caramel and pudding, nutmeg and chicory spice— the aroma was comforting and classy. Charred wood and an iron kettle arrived with hints of a dusty barn and horse blankets, like spending Christmas in the country. Medium-bodied on the palate, the flavor profile was similar with charred wood and tractor tires giving way to muddy earth, mint, grass, and caramel fudge. The finish was medium to long with charred wood and a return to holiday spices as chicory and cinnamon danced with earth and an old tractor tire.
SCORE: 8 (87)
IMAGE: Christmas in the Tractor Shed
THOUGHTS: This dram hit the mark, delivering exactly what I expect from a teenage Port Charlotte and closely matching the fanciful SMWS name. The flavors were wonderfully bold and rich with enough variation that each sip manifested a bit different than the one before it— I imagined the flavors were on the wheel of fate, constantly turning so that each revolution eventually brought familiar dirty, grassy, or sweet notes back around. Overall, delicious.
Whiskery Turnip 
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