Few Highland distilleries embrace peat to the extent Ardmore does, and most of its production is medium peated malt with several months out of the year dedicated to unpeated malt and a few weeks to heavily peated fare as well. The distillery has long been the backbone of Teacher’s, one of the most popular blended scotch labels, and Beam-Suntory has continued to use the distillery to that end since its purchase in 2005. Like many other Beam-Suntory operations, the distillery has a limited core range of single malts, and has remained generally available to independent bottlers (unlike the conglomerate’s Islay outposts).  This cask from SMWS was released as a US Exclusive in Fall 2024.

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Whisky: Ardmore 25 Year (1997), SMWS 66.249 “Happily ever after”

Country/Region: Scotland/Highland

ABV: 53.5%

Cask: Refill Bourbon Hogshead

Age: 25 Years (Distilled 23 Oct. 1997)

Notes: The aroma sparked memories of a busy charcoal grill on New Years, it was an outdoor affair with meaty char, caramelized sauces, dried grass, dusty earth, and expelled fireworks. There was an element of cordite or gunpowder, more like old spent shells than anything immediate, that lingered with flourless chocolate cake. An herbal undercurrent brought parsley and oregano together, sometimes drifting in the direction of mothball and camphor, but always coming back to an old bonfire. Medium-bodied on the palate, the flavor profile featured plenty of charcoal finished ribs, grilled prawns, dusty earth, and cocoa powder. It was a holiday grill feast as citrusy and herbal dipping sauces arrived a touch of smoked octopus and scorched rice. Chocolate powder lingered further in the background with a kiss of brine and wispy smoke that came through stronger at the end. The finish was medium-length and a touch drying with flourless chocolate cake, soot, and a kiss of roasted coffee.

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Score: 8 (88)

Mental Image: Surveying the BBQ Table

Conclusion: Wonderful fare. SMWS has had few misses among the massive lot of October 1997 Ardmore they have released over the years. Most of my favorites have had a refill sherry or French oak finish, I think those casks help provide some additional complexity and contrast to the robust peaty profile, but this was no slouch and a fun comparison against those other whiskies. A quarter century was not enough to tame the highland peat on this wonderful malt. The peat monster that is my wife was less enthusiastic finding it a touch sweet and not nearly as savory.