This is the last Mortlach review I have for now, and since I have reached the end of the line it’s worth thinking about what I have learned: first, I do not really love the herbal character of ex-bourbon Mortlach, not enough to seek it out anyway. Second, I enjoy it when sherried Mortlach have a bit of sulfur to them as it enhances some of the meatier qualities. Third, I am amazed at how little I enjoyed the Mortlach Special Releases from 2022 and 2023 considering the otherwise high floor of the whisky.

This whisky from Signatory Vintage was bottled for their 30th anniversary— the bottles in this series of have been some of my favorites and set high water marks for several distilleries.  This was also another 14 May 1991 sibling cask to the last two reviews I posted (Cask 4244 and 4253).

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Whisky: Mortlach 27 Year (1991), Signatory Vintage 30th Anniversary Cask 4239

Country/Region: Scotland/Speyside

ABV: 51.7%

Cask: Refill Sherry Butt

Age: 27 Years (Distilled 14 May 1991, Bottled 11 June 2018)

Notes: Sherried and rich, the aroma told of rich fudge spiced with cinnamon, nutmeg, and chili peppers while flourless chocolate cake and vanilla bean crème brûlée lingered further in. Decadent desserts, but never too sweet, dark chocolate gave way to fruitier notions of strawberries and poached pears with a sweet balsamic glaze. Medium to full-bodied, the whisky was viscous and syrupy on the palate with plenty of bright fruits, berries, a tangy balsamic syrup, and more subtle vanilla bean cream. More sulfur appeared on the palate with leather, burnt candle wicks or matches maybe, and ginger dark chocolate bars. With time the flavor profile took on meatier aspects, a touch gamey perhaps, with mushrooms and fruity balsamic sauces that ended with a peppercorn bite. The finish was long and classy with fruit, struck matches, and lacquered wood.

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Score: 8-9 (90)

Mental Image: Memory Making Desserts

Conclusion: I saved this for the end of my Mortlach series. Not because it was the oldest, though that would certainly have been a fine reason, but because I had a strong suspicion that it was going to be my favorite and I was afraid it would set a high bar for the others. Prior encounters with the whiskies Signatory Vintage bottled for its 30th Anniversary set high water marks for several distilleries and I regret not grabbing any of them when I had a chance to do so. 

This had a delightful sulfurous edge on the palate, so sulfur sensitive beware, but I found it elevated some of the dessert qualities of the nose and provided a savory contrast. As a result, the whisky had a very clear evolution with distinct levels of flavor emerging in an orderly fashion. Overall, a wonderful.