Here we have another Mortlach how I prefer it— a few decades in a sherry cask, and this happens to have been a sibling cask to the one I reviewed last. There are not many distilleries where all I want is some nice age and a good sherry cask, but Mortlach is on that short list. The hefty malt feels perfectly made for marrying a bold sherry cask… but what happens when a slightly sulfurous spirit meets a sulfurous cask?

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Whisky: Mortlach 26 Year (1991), Mackillop’s Choice Cask 4253

Country/Region: Scotland/Speyside

ABV: 54.6%

Cask: Sherry Wood

Age: 26 Years (Distilled 14 May 1991, Bottled Feb. 2018)

Notes: The sherry maturation was unmistakeable as it elevated the meatier qualities of the whisky, so that the herbal character of the malt approached something like marinated meatballs, tangy sauce, and toasted bread inside a new sports car.  Toasted herbs and spices, fennel, thyme, and cardamon mostly, appeared with a touch of cigar box, lacquered wood, and old cracked leather. Medium-bodied and viscous with a wonderful meatiness, almost gamey venison at times, with earthier mushroom elements and a bouquet garni for stewing. Black pepper and truffle salt arrived with lacquered wood and plenty of underlying sulfurous leather, like new shoes and patchouli. The finish was medium to long with a mellow meatiness against stronger woody resins and leather. 

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Score: 7-8 (86)

Mental Image: Bring my Steak Eating Socks!

Conclusion: Meaty and rather sulfurous at times, this was wonderfully different than most of the Mortlach I poured during this series. The core herbal character was there with hints of something floral, but the cask pushed everything toward earth and meat with its sulfur character (to that end, I would warn the sulfur sensitive to avoid so the rest of us can enjoy this in peace). A wonderful diversion, though perhaps a touch challenging at times.