Today’s Mortlach was the oldest vintage of this long series, and one of the highest abv. It dates from an era when distilleries cut costs by loading high proof spirit into casks— not necessarily a huge issue if you plan to cut the spirit with water before bottling. Some of the whiskies from the era have a rawness to them which is less common today as most distillers fill casks at a standard 63.5%. I do not know for certain if this was filled at a high proof, but based on the era and flavor profile, I would not be surprised.

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Whisky: Mortlach 21 Year (1980), Gordon & MacPhail Cask 3646

Country/Region: Scotland/Speyside

ABV: 63.8%

Cask: Refill Sherry Butt

Age: 21 Years (Distilled 24 July 1980, Bottled 7 June 2002)

Notes: Rich and savory, the heavily sherried malt offered cinnamon scones and fresh hotteok stuffed with brown sugar, cinnamon, walnuts, honey, and peanuts. Spirited pepper lingered in the background with fresh sharpie markers and wood vanish. More cured ham and leather joined with time as sandalwood and resinous incense began drifting out of the background. Medium to full-bodied and syrupy, almost fatty at times, the flavors were intense on the palate and peppery at the end, though the spirit was well-integrated. Honey, dried fruits, cranberries especially, and hotteok returned with more nuts, brown sugar, and cinnamon— a hotteok fruit cake? More honey and sandalwood waited further in as oiled leather joined at the finish. The finish was long and peppery with dried fruits and honey.

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Score: 8 (88)

Mental Image: Hotteok for the Holidays

Conclusion: Considering the elevated alcohol content, this purred like a kitten— it had its spirited moments, especially on the nose, but the palate was clean and balanced, with a hefty warm hug on the finish. The progression of flavors was wonderful as sweet honey, fried dough, and toasted nuts appeared in turn. It lacked some complexity as the malt more or less disappeared under the weight of the cask, and I wished a bit more of the meaty or floral elements came through. I am not a huge fan of big sherried whiskies, but even I could appreciate how good this was.