Mortlach is back, back again! Diageo opted to release a non-age statement Mortlach in its Special Release series two years in a row. This release featured a significant reduction in the types of cask used in the malt, which gave me hope that the flavors would be more defined and less muddled. The 2022 release was okay, and I thought I could imagine what the master blender was going for, but I never felt it came together. So here we go, a Mortlach with a samurai theme thanks to the use of ex-Kanosuke casks.

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Whisky: Mortlach, Diageo Special Release 2023

Country/Region: Scotland/Speyside

ABV: 58%

Cask: Ex-Kanosuke, Pinot Noir Finish

Age: N/A (Bottled 2023)

Notes: Fruity hard candies provided currants and blackberries with hints of thyme and mint in the background— the candy store was open, and directed me toward sweeter fare as nougat, fudge, and butterscotch chews appeared. A touch of licorice and cherry left me thinking Red Vines and movie theater snacks, while some peppery spirit helped clear my sinuses. Medium-bodied and syrupy, the flavor profile began with a wave of sticky cherry and strawberry candies or sodas and ended with a peppery spirited finale. In between I found more nougat studded with almonds and butterscotch candies— perhaps a touch of Turkish delight or currant gummies at times. The finish was medium-length with subtle fruity candies and plenty of spirited pepper.

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Score: 3 (70)

Mental Image: Movie Theater Candyland

Conclusion: At first, I thought this was marginally better than the 2022 release, but concluded that it was worse. It was more spirited and peppery, especially on the finish, and that detracted from the overall experience, even if the flavors were generally more cohesive. This felt safer than the 2022, and therefore much less interesting. I will give this some more credit, I thought it was great in a highball— but considering the price, that feels like small consolation.