The Rare Malts label was Diageo’s tentative experiment with special single malt releases around the turn of the last millennium. Their high abv and big spirited profiles pushed them far from the mainstream at the time they were bottled, and they were nothing like the mass market blends for which Diageo is known. The bottles typically included advice to add copious amounts of water, a necessity for anyone unaccustomed to drinking such high proof whiskies— and adding water is just good for high proof whiskies.

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Whisky: Coleburn 21 Year (1979), Rare Malts Selection

Country/Region: Scotland/Speyside

ABV: 59.4%

Cask: Oak

Age: 21 Years (Distilled 1979, Bottled Oct. 2000)

Notes: Spirited and fruity, white pepper cleared my sinuses so I could enjoy waxy lemons and yellow passion fruits. Starchy root vegetables and radishes had me thinking about the garden: potting soil, rubbery hose water, chemical insecticide, and woody shrubs. Nut oils and motor oil reminded me of pecan and walnut shelling machines with straw floors and a raw nuttiness— growing up we usually did these at home, but sometimes had so many we brought them to a machine. Medium-bodied and spirited, though less peppery than the aroma, with more citrus, mint, and motor oil washing across the palate. Grass and garden beds were back with oranges, apricots, and sweet stone fruits. I left the garden for the garage with potting soil, motor oil stains, garage chemical bins, and musty wooden cabinets. Starchy and vegetal elements waited near the end with some peppery and resinous spirit.  The finish was long with sweet citrus, musty garage, and peppery spirit.

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Score: 7 (85)

Mental Image: Weekend Gardening

Conclusion: This was the only Coleburn release in the Rare Malts series and it had a lot in common with the other releases from the lost DLC distilleries— it was spirited, grungy, and garden-like. Not every whisky hits one or both of those elements, but this touched on all three. It had plenty of the liveliness I expect from the label, and the flavor profile aligned closely with the Cadenhead’s bottle I also reviewed this week from woody mulch to rubber garden hoses and a bit of a chemical quality, especially to the finish— this was slightly less idiosyncratic and more cohesive.