This Port Charlotte single cask from Dramfool was bottled in partnership with Jim McEwan, it was part of the final release of casks that he carried off into retirement. It is hard to imagine there are not a few more stashed away somewhere for a final surprise, but this was at least the end of Dramfool’s McEwan Signature series. I previously reviewed the Bruichladdich and Octomore from this set and found them to be some of the absolute best whiskies in the series— I was told by multiple people that they also thought this Port Charlotte was the best in the series.

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Whisky: Port Charlotte 16 Year (2007), Dramfool McEwan Signature Collection 9.2

Country/Region: Scotland/Islay

ABV: 62.4%

Cask: First Fill Vosne Romanée Barrique

Age: 16 Years (Distilled 26 October. 2007, Bottled Jan. 2024)

Notes: Smoked fish dip and nori crackers roared out of the glass— it was fine smoked tuna and swordfish dressed with creamy aioli (or mayo), shoyu, nori, and sesame. Braised onions and meat offered sweetness and rich depth to the wok hei that infused the aroma— a kind of smokey, metallic, and caramelized quality that is hard to recreate at home. Medium to full-bodied with a meaty richness and sweet caramelized sugars— more ripe tomatoes bursting in the pan than anything, with balsamic, salt, and black pepper. A touch drying and tannic, the flavors gradually shifted to smoked nori, sesame, and a slightly sulfurous old rubber tire. Brown sugar, hickory smoked bacon,  and lacquered wood waited at the end with aromatic resins and smokey incense. The finish was long with sweet caramelized sugars and a tanginess that felt like a poached tomato-based dessert.

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Score: 7-8 (87)

Mental Image: Fine Dining at 20,000 Leagues under the Sea

Conclusion: The aroma was fabulous, possibly one of the finest smelling Port Charlotte I have encountered. My mouth watered with the smoked fish and smell of a hot wok in action, at times it even turned a touch sweet and reminded me of chocolate brownies or cake with a touch of clove.  The flavor profile was eccentric with a wild tangy tomato quality to the caramelized sugars and meatier depth. The finish was incredibly long with a gentle evolution that continued for a quarter hour after I had taken a few sips. 

The first time I tried this I had no idea how I was going to score it; there were elements I did not appreciate: the whisky was a touch tannic, the wine cask influence turned up too loud, and the spirit not always well integrated. A few drops of water helped balance some of those elements, and I thought generally improved the experience without washing out any of the flavors (though it did shorten the finish some). Overall, the whisky was interesting and good— the right combination.