This unpeated malt from Bruichladdich spent its life in a first fill bourbon barrel before it was bottled by the retailer Nickolls & Perks under their own label. I am typically cooler on unpeated Bruichladdich than Port Charlotte, which I love dearly, especially when some of its characteristic lactic elements veer toward baby vomit or remind me of cleaning out dairy refrigerators. Those elements can well appear on Port Charlotte, but the addition of peat seems to be enough that I love them there, even if I do not always on Laddie.

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Whisky: Bruichladdich 18 Year (2005), Nickolls & Perks Cask 518

Country/Region: Scotland/Islay

ABV: 54.7%

Cask: First Fill Bourbon Barrel

Age: 18 Years (Distilled 2005, Bottled 2023)

Notes: Creamy, fatty, lactic— the aroma left no doubt about the Bruichladdich DNA of this malt with a bit of sweaty parmesan rind. Marmalades, cracked pepper, and sea salt sat further in, a fruity accompaniment for soft cheese and curds— a bit like doing a cheese tasting inside the dairy co-op. A lovely maltiness arrived later giving the impression of cheese stuffed pastries with herbs and sweet honey. Medium-bodied the flavor profile was peppery and sweet with orange marmalade and apricot preserves over toast and cream cheese. Warming and spirited, the flavors were less lactic than the aroma, with more pepper, pretzels, sea salt, and rice crackers.  The finish was medium-length and a touch bitter with apricot, butter, pepper, and a kiss of salt.

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Score: 6+ (79)

Mental Image: Dairy Co-op Curds and Scones Breakfast Platter

Conclusion: This was classic Laddie all the way through with plenty of creamy funk, sweet fruits, honey, and a kiss of maritime brine. The bourbon cask elevated some of those sweeter elements, but otherwise hung in the background, allowing the malt to take center stage.  On the aroma that meant plenty of the characteristic lactic quality, while on the palate there was a surprising amount of spirit and pepper— though not offensively so. The flavors were rather narrow, but sure to please fans of the distillery. A solid whisky, even with some rough edges, it is easy to imagine that someday these early 2000 Bruichladdich will be sorely missed and highly regarded.

Image Credit: Nicholls and Perks