For a distillery that few know, Tormore has been a canary of change in the scotch whisky industry several times. Founded in 1958, it was one of a trio of malt distilleries started in the late 1950s as a result of the post-war malt shortage and industry boom (Glen Keith and Lochside were the other two). It launched its first single malt in the early 2000s as distilleries increasingly took notice of the growing single malt sector, and in 2022 it was sold by Pernod Ricard to Elixir Distillers. The independent bottler, and former operators of the Whisky Exchange, branched out into distillery ownership (along with a number of other independent bottlers; see Adelphi with Ardnamurchan, or Wemyss with Kingsbarns for example).

As for my reckoning— Tormore is among the distilleries that I have enjoyed best after a couple of decades of maturation. It is not one that I have found terribly interesting at a young age, but it develops nicely and this is the oldest one I have had the pleasure to taste.

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Whisky: Tormore 35 Year (1988), SMWS 105.55 “Crepuscular complexity”

Country/Region: Scotland/Speyside

ABV: 42%

Cask: Refill Bourbon Hogshead

Age: 35 Years (Distilled 28 Dec. 1988)

Notes: Dusty, musty, and thick— it was all resinous wood and antiques in a well-appointed parlor with little pots of jam and marmalade. A touch of green mango and cellophane opened to bright orange marmalade, honey comb, Korean pears, and quince preserves. White piri mango and mountain apples (or Java apples— not actually a type of apple) emerged with lacquered wood and old velvet cushions. Light-bodied with a gentle oiliness, the flavors were fruity, musty, and occasionally a bit floral— time for tea in the parlor! But first, sidewalk chalk and old newspapers as a musty garage with cans of linseed oil and motor oil stains appeared. Yeasty and fermented, old-fashioned in a way, as if strolling into the kitchen to grab butter rolls and pandesal for tea. Subtle hibiscus and achiote offered a floral accent to guava and watermelon as herbal tisanes lingered on the palate. The finish was long and slightly drying with a touch of herbal tobacco emerging from the mustiness and herbal elements.

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Score: 8-9 (89)

Mental Image: Tea Time in the Car Port under the Mango Tree

Conclusion: A slumbering giant, one that was slow to awaken, the aroma was brighter and more lively every time I returned to this bottle. It was initially very restrained and quiet during our tasting, but we could all tell by the end that it was on its way to waking up. The flavor profile and finish needed less time to awaken on subsequent pours; they were louder with more florals, tobacco, and grungy garage developing (after about two months it finally started to become fruitier, but then my remainder ran out and I am not ready to open the full bottle I picked up— but I am excited to see how it continues to evolve when I finally do). 

Most people at the tasting scored this second or third behind the Bladnoch, though just about everyone expected it was only going to get better with time. Overall, fantastic whisky with some eccentricities that might not please everyone, right on the cusp of being extraordinary or great— I may need to revise this review in a few years.