Our local whisky group has no shortage of funky whisky fans, and some of them adore Fettercairn. I can see why, the spirit is capable of being rather eccentric (to the displeasure of some in the group), and I was not surprised when multiple people bought this bottle and eschewed the rest of the set (maybe because they could just come taste it with the group). 

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Whisky: Fettercairn 27 Year (1997), SMWS 94.51 “Verdant reawakening”

Country/Region: Scotland/Highland

ABV: 55.8%

Cask: Refill Bourbon Hogshead

Age: 27 Years (Distilled 14 March 1997)

Notes: A wooden cutting board adorned with dried fruits and fruity gummies— a gummy board for a fine tasting of sugar confections with kiwi, pear, lime, and melon (no bursting fruit, just sugary gummies with a touch of tartness). Earthy vineyards, mossy stone walls, and lush grass set the scene for the tasting with wooden pencils, soft rubber erasures, rosemary blossoms, and plastic models. Medium to full-bodied with a hefty weight on the palate, mellow creaminess, and fruity arrival. Crisp white wine offered white flowers and Japanese grape jelly cups, while melon and honeysuckle sat in the background. As grassier and earthier elements appeared I imagined matcha white chocolate confections— subtle metallic hints, like a hot blow dryer. The finish was long and creamy with fruity green grapefruit cream candies and touch of pepper.

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Score: 7-8 (86)

Mental Image: Gummy Worm Tasting Panel

Conclusion: Rich and decadent, but not terribly funky, this mature Fettercairn was a hefty fruit bomb with an underlying peppery spirit that provided a gentle warming quality to the finish. This was quite pungent on the aroma and palate after nearly three decades. It was the simplest whisky in this SMWS Creator’s Collection and, when we poured it at a local tasting, I recall everyone ranking it in their bottom two— though they would be quick to add it was a great whisky, it just lacked the same depth and evolution as the others. In isolation, I found some of the more spirited elements stood out more, but they did not distract from the deliciously fruity core and provided a good liveliness.

Overall, this might not have hit the same heights as the other whiskies in the set, but it was incredibly fruity and pleasant to drink.