This was a funny one— a single distillery blend from a ghost distillery that was once the southern most distillery in the world. This 21 Year came from the final remaining casks of the Wilson’s master blend. That master blend contained 70% malted barley and 30% unmalted barley, a mix of which was distilled on copper pot and column stills. Those stills were disassembled and shipped to Fiji for rum production at the end of the last millennium after the implosion of the Seagram’s empire and the sale of the distillery to Foster’s. The distillery went by several names over the years: Wilson’s, Lammerlaw, Willowbank, and Dunedin.

While New Zealand Whisky Co. hinted on Facebook that they still had more casks of the single malt to release, they confirmed this was the last of what had for several generations been an iconic whisky blend in New Zealand.

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Whisky: Wilson’s 21 Year 

Country/Region: New Zealand

ABV: 42.7%

Cask: Bourbon, American Oak

Age: 21 Years (Bottled 2023)

Notes: Creamy and sweet, it was oatmeal porridge with honey and green apples as grain and malt waved hello. Hints of dried papaya, kiwi, and mango lingered with slivered almonds in the background as bosc pears and then passionfruit yogurt arrived. A touch floral and fresh, eucalyptus, garden flowers, and vanilla left me imagining breakfast in a botanical garden. Light and delicate on the palate, the flavors were crisp and clean with plenty of pepper cracking on the back end. Bright orchard fruits and white wine arrived first with more subtle white flowers, cream, and dried tropical fruits following. Melon with dried papaya and mango—snack for a bird it felt like— lingered with hessian, old slightly singed papers, and butcher’s twine toward the back. Cracked black peppercorns and a few slightly floral pinks ones lingered in the background for good measure. The finish was long with orchard fruits, blossoms, vanilla, and pepper.

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Score: 7 (82)

Mental Image: Botanical Garden Breakfast with the Birds

Conclusion: Maybe the romance of the lost distillery seduced me— but I thought this was lovely for a well-aged blend, and it tickled my love for slightly floral whiskies. I doubt anyone would find this soapy— it was not that kind of floral— but I imagine some might find the grainy aspects of the blend overly pronounced, and the mouthfeel too thin. I did not find either fatal to my enjoyment, especially considering the whisky as a whole and how it evolved across the glass (and across several evenings). Each sip built on the last so that the flavors gained intensity and the finish pushed out even longer. For the price (I paid $50 for 100ml), it is hard to recommend this, even though I quite enjoyed it. Not unless the romance of the lost distillery seduces you too.

Overall, a wonderful and very drinkable blend— a memory of the Spring during a Dunedin winter. I enjoyed this more every time I poured it and I cannot wait to some of the new generation of Kiwi malts reach this venerable age.