It can be hard to find the line between the romance of the lost distillery, and the actual enjoyment of the whisky. The sharpened awareness of just how ephemeral the whisky is, the fact that no more is being made, can heighten enjoyment beyond the bounds of just the aroma and taste in the glass. On the one hand, that is not a problem at all; the romance and storytelling of whisky is part of what makes it so much fun and our expectations for a whisky play a role in our enjoyment of it. On the other hand, it is nice to at least pretend to some level of objectivity, even if I think its ultimately impossible, because it is no good if we are constantly swept up in branding or groupthink. 

I have no idea where I fell on that scale with this whisky, but I acknowledge that I get swept up in the romance and history of a whisky pretty easily.

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Whisky: Millburn 20 Year (1982), The Bottlers Cask 1971

Country/Region: Scotland/Highland

ABV: 63%

Cask: Refill Sherry Hogshead

Age: 20 Years (Distilled Dec. 1982, Bottled June 2003)

Notes: Meaty, earthy, and spicy, the aroma reminded me of truffle steak flavored potato chips— a slightly artificial meatiness spiced with smoked paprika, onion powder, and powdered truffle. A touch dirty and oily, like a popcorn maker in need of cleaning, with fried Twinkies, pastries, and ginger sesame biscuits— it was as spicy and spirited as the abv hinted. Medium-bodied, the flavor profile launched into a spicy, earthy whirlwind of caraway, ginger, and grassy lawn clippings with the mustiness of an old backyard shed. Old cooking oil and rusted cast iron provided a grunginess to slightly fermented notes of lemon, ginger, and lemon grass. More earthy clay pots and dirty garden sheds lingered at the end with plenty of spirited prickle.  The finish was medium to long and slightly drying with clay, citrus, and old garden gloves.

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Score: 7 (85)

Mental Image: Fried Food Experimentation in the Old Garden Shed

Narrative & Notes: Unusual— though maybe there is a pattern here as Millburn frequently evokes memories of my grandparents backyard sheds, especially rummaging through their garden equipment and old pots for pirate treasure or the ingredients for some other adventure. This was a touch fiery at times, with plenty of spirited vigor despite the age at which it was bottled, and long slumber in glass. As a result, it felt a bit raw at times, a real spirit driven whisky (and something quite different to the cask bombs of today.)

Overall, tasty and unusual, but a touch unrefined.