It is an absolute joy any time I can pour a Port Ellen.  The distillery has a certain legendary status due to its closure in 1983 and more recent rebirth— though the maltings on site continued to operate in the intervening forty years. The status of the distillery among whisky drinkers has no doubt aided by the sheer volume of casks that found their way into the hands of independent bottlers as a result of the 1980s whisky loch and slow recovery in the 1990s. Compared to some of the other distilleries that closed at the same time, Port Ellen has significantly more releases available— though thanks to demand, they are never cheap.

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Whisky: Port Ellen 15 Year (1981), Glenscoma

Country/Region: Scotland/Islay

ABV: 62%

Cask: Oak

Age: 15 Years (Distilled 1981, Bottled 1996)

Notes: Coastal and mellow with hints of tarry beach sands behind an ice chest full of chopped tropical fruits; pineapple, guava, and orange. Hints of slightly floral and citrusy pomelo danced with driftwood and salted caramel as more fruity syrups and caramelized desserts emerged. Medium-bodied and oily, the flavor profile was loaded with tropical citrus, coastal brine, and dirtier industrial notes that faded toward medicinal herbs at the end. Sliced pineapple, oranges, and passion fruit popped on the palate with hints of musty garage and shop rags. A salty brine lingered underneath it all, sometimes combining with the fruit like a tart li hing mui powder for dressing the pineapple. Toward the end, the musty shop shifted toward muscle rubs and camphor.  The finish was medium to long with bright tropical citrus and salted caramel.

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Score: 8 (87)

Mental Image: Beach Picnic Supplies

Narrative & Notes: This was far fruitier than any other Port Ellen I have had— though most have been considerably older.  Arun at Singapore’s Swan Song made sure I brought home this a special dram for my wife last time I was in Singapore as she was unfortunately not able to join in that time.  She was a fan of the whisky, though she found it even fruitier and more dessert-driven than I did.