Whisky: Mars Shinshu 10 Year (1990) Ceramic Decanter

Country/Region: Japan

ABV: 58.9%

Cask: American White Oak

Age: 10 Years (Distilled 1990)

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Nose: Lacquered and varnished wood, creamy desserts, caramelized sugars, pudding, tonka bean, sharpie markers.

Palate: Full-bodied, woody, tannic, astringent; caramelized sugars, tonka bean, brown sugar, orange rind, baking spices, black pepper.

Finish: Long and drying with ample wood and baking spice.

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Score: 5 (74)

Mental Image: Torched Desserts for Northern Beavers

Narrative & Notes: The aroma carried fine lacquered wood and creamy desserts— creme brûlée with glazed fruits, flan, or even a custard with some torched brown sugar. Polished wood joined tonka beans and vanilla as decadent desserts continued with a hint of Sharpie markers and caramelized tomato paste.  Full-bodied on the palate, loads of woody tannins rolled in with brown sugar, tonka bean, dulce de leche, and lacquered wood. Caramelized sugars and gooey desserts arrived with orange rind, cinnamon, nutmeg, and black pepper as the whisky took a spicy turn at the end. Always rather tannic, with plenty of wood and the drying astringency of over-steeped black tea. The finish was long and drying with ample wood and baking spice.

Intensely woody— considering the intensity of the wood-driven tannins and flavors after a decade of maturation, this must have been matured in new American oak and not an American oak bourbon barrel or some other refill wood. This was a feisty affair as wood and spirited pepper wrestled, creating a profile that veered in the direction of a bourbon more than a scotch. The cask influence was so strong that it was hard to get much of the pre-shutdown Shinshu character here, with only fleeting glimpses of other elements.

Overall, reasonably enjoyable, albeit overly woody for my taste. These old Mars Shinshu are a delight and so different than the modern spirit, showcasing a heavier style that is generally more to my taste (even if this was not my favorite).